I looked up some informations it does look to expensive to repair maybe 3 hours of labor max
P0775 Presure Control Solenoid B means a bad separator plate and valve body gasket.
You will need the following items:
- INCH POUND Torque wrench
- t-30 torx
- metric sockets
- trans fluid (7 total quarts) (I supplemented a quart of Lucus transmission additive for one quart)
- Trans Filter Kit
- New separator plate (I will explain later)
- TSB replacement (mine was kt3l5p-7m203-ja)
- Petroleum jelly
- Pick and Needle Nose Pliers
- Card board (again, I'll explain later)
I would encourage you to go to a Ford dealership and get the separator plate because the gaskets are bonded to it and it's only about $14. The bonded gaskets should eliminate the blow out problem. I also recommend having a Ford dealership plug in the VIN so you can address a couple TSBs while you're in there. My total investment was around $100 and maybe 5 hours of labor. Make very sure that you are keeping all parts clean and installing clean bolts. The smallest dirt can make a valve stick!
First you must get that old transmission pan off. Pull the bolts and leave a couple in so you can direct the flow of trans fluid towards the pan. Good luck, you will need it.
Then after you get the pan off you can set it aside and pull the filter, again you will get a nice shower of fluid. You should get a new bolt with the filter so you should be able to discard this bolt. I would recommend doing this so you don't get it messed up with the others later.
Once the filter is off you can make a template of you valve body bolts. This is critical because there are something of 6 different length bolts. Here is my crude but effective template.
Now that you have the template you can remove the wiring harnesses of the solenoids. Pull the wires straight down off of them. You do not need to remove any of the bolts to go this. Then lay the wires off to the side so you don't get them entangled in something else. Below is a picture of the wires attached:
In this photo you can see the gold bolt which holds a bracket on. DO NOT TAKE ANY OF THE GOLD BOLTS OUT AT ANY TIME during this fix. these hold the solenoids in. If one comes loose fluid can bypass the o-rings causing the trans to not shift.
Now that you have the wires off you can see the 24 bolts that have to come out to get the valve body off. Here is the photo showing the torque pattern but it will show you where all 23 bolts plus the one for the filter are.
Below is a picture of my template with the bolts in it:
I'd recommend leaving the 2 bolts in the center in so they can support the valve body. There are also 4 bolts on the reverse servo that need to come out. (this is the round hole you see in the picture with the 4 bolts in a square pattern) These hold the cover on as well as the servo in, so it might come out. If so just sit it off to the side where it will stay clean. the cover has a paper gasket on it and I didn't need to replace it but I did anyway. I would just recommend reusing the old gasket.
Now you must remove a couple of bolts on the side of the trans that hold the manual detent lever spring. Note the orientation of the spring lever. I have also circled the gear selector valve and how it attaches. You need to make sure to get this back on when reinstalling the valve body. (left circle) and the right circle is the bolt holding the manual detent spring lever. You may remove these both and lay them off to the side and there should be a place in the template for the bolt.
How you should be ready to pull the valve body down. make sure you have of the pans ready because these is a couple of quarts of fluid ready to make their appearance. Pull the last couple of bolts and remove the valve body. Bring the valve body straight down and make sure to not set it on anything dirty.
Once you have the valve body out you can go to the work bench and spread some towels and begin the fun part.
rest of the info is on the link below